Spring season has started here in Kandersteg.
It is time for many to put away skis and start thinking about hiking and
climbing.
Climbing, be it rock, ice, or mountaineering,
in particular is a activity most would not think to be Eco friendly. It has
evolved to do so but still has a bit to go, which is why I wish to talk about
it in light of recent events. The Nepalese government has recently
ordered that each and every climber on Mount Everest “must bring back at least 8kg of garbage, apart
from their own trash.“
This is a major step forward after decades of discarded oxygen bottles, packaging,
clothes and in some extreme cases, bodies have littered the trail to the highest
peak in the world. A failure for climbers to do this will result in major
penalties from the Nepalese Government, which is not clear if that will be
fines or revokes or cancelation of future climbing permits.
Many of us here at KISC are not only enthusiastic
about being and playing in our serine mountain environment but also taking care
our surroundings. This stems from not only a scouting principle of “leaving
things better than you found it” but also from being a supportive member of the
human race.
Changes have happened over the years to make
climbing more Eco friendly and sustainable for climbers. In the early day of mountaineering,
It was common in Europe, North America and Asia for climbers to use pitons. As pictured below, these are
iron spikes or rods that one hammers into cracks and therefore secure to on
their ascent.
Pitons are damaging to the rock, by enlarging the cracks in the
rock over time and are left to rust as they are not removable. While secure,
climbers in the 1960s and 1970s realized there need to be a change.
Pictured above are common modern
methods of securement while climbing. On the left is a nut (also called a stopper
or chalkstone). They are easily slipped into cracks and also (mostly) easy to remove after use.
They were first used by British climbers in the 1950s and further propelled by
Americans such as Yvon
Chouinard in the 60s as part of clean climbing, or climbing in the least
environmentally harmful way as possible.
On the right is a cam, or Spring
Loaded Camming Device. First invented in the 1930s by Russian climbers but
later patented by climbers in the 1970s. They do a better job and are a lighter protection
in even sized cracks than pitons ever could. Additionally, they are removable and no
damaging to the rock.
These are all good steps in making
climbing more clean but what are some of the ways KISC do to do our part? We first limit the
number of guest per guide of a trip, not only to help out the guides on a
climbing course, but to not put too much traffic on the rock. We do not use
pitons but previously placed bolts and
anchors, to set up our climbs. These are regularly check to be secure. Additionally, pre-placed bolts concentrate the impact of climbing to only a few climbs and not the whole
rock. Lastly, we take good care of all our climbing equipment. Again, not only for
safety reasons, but the less we have to replace and the more we can clean or
repair can go a long way in making our climbing programs sustainable.
Climbing, along with all other
outdoor sports, be it skiing, rafting or mountain biking makes us better
people. However it is important not the degrade the outdoors we love in
exchange. We invite all scouts to
explore the hills around our little mountain chalet safely but with a little
consideration to their impact along the way.
Tad (US)
Eco Assistant
Eco Assistant
